Have you ever walked unto a museum to find yourself totally thrilled? The Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, the United States' oldest art museum and school, was founded in 1805 in Philadelphia by Charles Willson Peale (whose portrait of Gouverneur and Robert Morris above positively radiates with their smug sense of superiority), William Rush and other artists. Thomas Eakins, Mary Cassatt, Charles Demuth and Maxfield Parrish are some of the school's graduates. The Academy's permanent collection is housed in a Neo-Gothic 1876 building in downtown Philadelphia that has the exuberance of style of the period, with lots of entertaining architectural detail. The Academy reminds me so much of the V+A in London. The collection of American art, especially from before the American Civil war is engaging, exciting, and wonderfully curated.
The museum had a modest but very good new exhibit on display, but the point is the permanent collection. The collection consist mostly of representational art, spectacularly crafted and profoundly untrendy. I've been visiting Philadelphia regularly for nearly twenty years, and this was my first visit. The museum maintains a low profile, without glitzy work and a buzzy change of exhibits that attracts tourists and social media. During my visit, the exhibition halls were pretty empty. I found this poignant, but also enjoyed the sense of peace that is so often missing from crowded touristy art museums. The Academy is hoping for some crowds during the Democratic Convention - the Academy is directly across the street from Philadelphia's Convention Center - and will probably program some activities to lure conventioneers and press into the museum. I hope this gem does get the recognition it deserves. After we spent several hours looking at the permanent collection, we went next door to see the senior and graduate art shows. While I am not normally a big fan of modern art, and I thought the quality of work was uneven, I did find some wonderful stuff to look at. Here are some photos I took, along with captions of some of the highlights of the building and the collections.
Built in 1876 and looking like the V & A in London. In the basement at dozens of wonderful plaster casts of the great sculptures of classical Europe. Used by students for study, some of the casts date from the founding of the school. The wild and crazy architectural details are so much fun to look at and enjoy. The diagonal wainscotting in most of the galleries adds energy to the rooms and also makes them much less sterile than a modern hall. The salon-style of display, also associated with Philadelphia's great Barnes Foundation, is unusual for the Academy of the Fine Arts Tall heavy pocket doors, wonderfully made are a great example of Victorian craftmanship. These columns supporting a steel beam are just cool. This repetitive pattern carved in stone adds interest to the staircase. Two of Diego Rodriguez Carrion's wonderful wood engravings were highlights of the student show. His use of the grain of the wood as part of the design showed a welcome appreciation of materials.
Thanks, enjoyed the short tour. Will have to add to my bucket list.
06/08/2016 Bill
In case no one has mentioned it yet, look up the bldg's architect, Frank Furness. Wonderful, ideosycratic, just great. Out of fashion for a long time. Thanks for talking up Philly.
06/08/2016 Brad
Some places I did not know I needed on my bucket list. THIS.
Thanks, Joel. What a treat awaits.
Have you ever walked unto a museum to find yourself totally thrilled? 
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Thanks, Joel. What a treat awaits.